Canon Lens 55-250mm

Hi there =)

Me again, with another photorealistic render I had to do for my photorealistic class at NAD center.


We could not use photoshop to add dirt or whatever, only some curve to add a little bit of contrast and some color corrections. So everything you see here was done in Blender, through texturing, extruding small pieces of geometry to fake lights, and so on.

So I’ll let you guess which one is the render and which one is the photo =)

Thanks !

Damn, good job! I’d guess the one on the right is the render - it’s slightly cleaner and there is no purple/green fringing on the highlights. You nearly had me though :wink:

It’s interesting that the blurred writing at the bottom is a bit darker in the render - I know this happens when you don’t enable Gamma Correction on the Defocus node in the compositor, but I’m guessing you did the DoF straight in Cycles. Perhaps it’s something to do with colour space magic…

Incredibly good. I’m guessing the right one as well for the real. The only issue I can see is that there is a discrepancy, I think, between lens type for each photo.

This is incredibly good your lighting is spot on.

Wow! Stunning. So realistic. I’ll guess the right one is real.

Very very nice. The only thing I notice which gives away the left as a render is how pristine the highlights of the lens cap are in comparison to the right, which has the sort of grainy plastic texture I’d expect on such an object.

For next time, I’ve found that a simple black and white noise texture bump map with a very subtle value (fraction of a mm) is sufficient to mimic the effect.

My vote is for the right as the render, which now has it at 3 for right and 2 for left. Please tell us! :smiley:

This is pretty damn hard, I’m impressed… but I also think the one on the right is the render.

How long did it took to do everything? After some minutes trying to understand which is the render i’m not yet sure; i guess the one at right is a render. Both suffer from jpg compression but the left one have some extra dust and the glossiness and highlights on the cap seems the more “correct”…or maybe not. Good work :smiley:

It took me something like 7 hours for the modeling part, then about 10-15 hours for the basic shading, lighting and rendering.

The longest part was the tweaking of everything. I spent two days (something like 15 hours in total) tweaking glossiness and color values, something changing values from 0.05 to 0.055, which in the end would make a big difference.

I also spent a lot of time finding cheats, like extruding small pieces of geometry to fake light sources (I have like 15 small light on the canon letters to fake the orangish reflections).

Anyway what I really learned with this project is that you must be very precise in what values you use. Before that I often changed the glossiness of my shaders from 0.1 to 0.2, thinking that one or the other would work, when in fact the difference between 0.1, 0.11, 0.12, 0.13… is huge.

^indeed, I have also found that it’s very hard to nail the values (glossiness, bump amount, colors) for plastic materials.

But seriously! Which one is the render?? :smiley:

very realistic, it looks great

Ok so congrats to everyone who said the left one was the render !

As SamL mentionned it’s definitely the cap that sells the left one as the 3D render. Though I added very small and subtle noise in the bump of the cap I didn’t manage to catch the subtelty of the photo.

I was going to guess the right was real, and left was render

for me, the give away was that I know that the canon lens focusing rings are bands of rubber simply hugging very closely to the barrel of the lens in a precisely sized groove. This is evident in the real photo as a slight bevel between the ridged rubber focusing ring, and the plastic below it.

the render appears to be ridged hard plastic and not 2 separate pieces of different material :slight_smile:

damn fine job though!

Yeah, gotta say, you fooled a bunch of us, and I thought I had a pretty good eye for these things, as do most people on this forum.

If you have any tips or rules of thumb or techniques you’ve learned in this class or elsewhere on how to achieve the last 5% of photorealism it would be much appreciated, either here or in a tutorial or something.

IMO the fine details are where the good becomes great, and advice on where to spend time and what techniques to use would be helpful to a lot of us. Specifically I’m interested in stuff like how you developed the bump maps, and how you did the dust motes and whatnot.

Anyway, again, nice work!

Excellent work. I’m a big Canon fan and the one on the right was my choice. The left side just looked a little bit used. Great attention to detail. Well,…win some, lose some.